1. You’ve just had a long day of work
2. So they’ve gotten the couch nice and warm for you
3. And all they want to do is cuddle
4. They’ve kept the house organized
5. They understand that you might need some time for yourself
6. And they’ll stay out of your hair if you do
7. But they’ve been waiting patiently for you all day
8. So they’d like to hang out with you
9. Because they’ll do anything to be with you
10. And they’re always happy to see you.
[Here's a great article we found on makezine.com, enjoy]Editor’s Note: The following DIY originally appeared in CRAFT Volume 10. Pictured above is author Ana Poe with her adorable pup Paco. Paco tragically passed away in January of 2009. RIP dear Paco. DIY Dog Collar Build a leather collar with style and substance. By Ana Poe i began working with leather seven years ago when I stumbled across it during the hunt for the perfect collar for my dog, Paco. Since I’ve never taken a class, most of the following techniques are either self-taught or passed on to me by old-time leather workers. When working with leather, remember that it falls under the same rules as wood, metal, and stone: measure twice, cut once, and when you can’t beat it, learn to work with it.
Leather strip or piece of hide Collar template Buckle, D-ring, and rivets Water-based edge dye Leather conditioner I recommend a combination of mink oil, cream conditioner, and beeswax. Decorative studs and/or conchos Leather stamp and paints (optional) Using high-quality materials will pay off in the long run. Use brass hardware whenever possible (nickel finish is available) and start with a high-quality latigo leather. Originally used as horse tack, latigo leather is meant to tolerate sweat, dirt, and weather, and will not only stand the test of time but will look better doing so.
Ruler Strap cutter Mallet Tack hammer Leather scissors Small scissors Needlenose vise-grip pliers Skiver X-Acto knife Hole punch Scratch awl Screwdriver Rivet setter Edge beveler (optional) Some of these tools you may already have lying around your house. You can find the specialized tools online at tandyleatherfactory.com or at one of its many branches. If you need to speak to an expert leather worker, call up Chris Howard at the Michigan branch and tell him we sent you.
Caution: The nature of leather tools — sharp! — means that your skin poses no serious obstacle. Use every tool appropriately and safely, and before you begin each step, watch where your hands are! Step 1: Strap-cut the hide. If you have a piece of hide, adjust the strap cutter to the width of the collar you want and run along the straight edge to create a strip from which you’ll cut the collar. You can also buy pre-cut strips from most leather suppliers. Step 2: Cut a generous length. To determine the length of leather to cut, take your dog’s exact neck measurement and add 10″. It’s a healthy measurement, and you may end up cutting off some excess, but while you can always subtract, you can never add. At both ends, crop off the corners for a finished look. Step 3: Bevel the edges (optional). Using a keen edge beveler, run the tool along the top corner of the leather to remove the edge. Repeat on all sides and ends. This step creates a more polished look and a comfortable fit for the dog. Step 4: Dye the edges. Select a water-based edge dye that matches the color of the leather you’re working with. Keep a wiping rag handy and use an applicator or specialized dispenser to cover the exposed edges with an even coat of dye. Take care not to drip over the leather, as the dye stains quickly. Step 5: Condition the leather. Taking the time to apply conditioners will extend the life of your leather goods. They can also bring an old leather product back to life. Apply mink oil and cream conditioner on a rag and, using your hand strength, work into the leather. To finish, wipe beeswax lightly onto the leather and then wipe off the excess. This last step protects the collar against water. Step 6: Mark the holes, and trim. Download the appropriate template from craftzine.com/10/doggone_collar. Take the side marked “buckle end” and slide it flush to the end of the leather. Use a scratch awl to mark the leather where indicated. For the tail end, follow the instructions on the template and line up the second hole at your dog’s exact neck size. Mark the leather at the end of the template, cut off the excess, and bevel and dye the end. Step 7: Skive the collar. Working from the suede underside of the leather, use the skiving tool to remove about half the thickness of the leather from the mark on the template to the buckle end. This step will remove bulk and make it easier for the leather to conform around the buckle. Step 8: Punch holes. The hole punch tool comes with many different head sizes, from #0 to #5. The template will tell you which size punch to use for each hole. When preparing to punch, always lay a scrap of leather underneath, as impact with a hard object can crack or bend the punch. Line up the punch, using the scratch awl mark as the center of a bulls-eye. With several firm whacks, use the mallet to depress the punch through the leather. Repeat until all holes are punched. Using an X-Acto blade, cut out the leather where indicated to create an oblong slot for the buckle. Step 9: Add the buckle and rivets. Weave the punched leather through the buckle and fold the tail underneath. To set a rivet, push the male end of the rivet through both layers, from the bottom, and top it with the cap. Place the rivet-setting anvil on something hard, like a piece of marble. Select the appropriate anvil (it will be the slightly concave one the same size as your rivet cap) and use the mallet to set the rivet firmly. You cannot hit the rivet too hard! If you don’t set it firmly enough, the collar will fail, so if you’re not sure, tug the leather the same way your dog on a leash would, and reset the rivet if need be. Set the 2 rivets closest to the buckle first, slide on your D-ring, and set the remaining 2. Step 10: Decorate! Now comes the fun part. Select your decorations and map out their placement on the collar. Mark the leather by using the actual decoration itself (apply pressure to make a mark) or a scratch awl. For studs, it helps to lock them in a pair of needlenose vise-grips so you can easily mark both tails at once. Decorations attach to the leather in 1 of 3 ways: screw-back, rivet-back, or tails. For screw-back conchos, use a #4 or #5 hole punch, punch the hole, and then screw into place. For added security, apply a drop of threadlocker on the backing. For rivet-back decorations, use a #0 punch and the appropriate setting tools. Without machinery, setting rivet decorations securely enough for daily wear while simultaneously not damaging the decoration can be tricky, so we recommend staying away from rivet-backs if you can help it. For studs, cut parallel holes with an X-Acto blade, push the stud through the holes, turn the tails in with a screwdriver or pliers, and then gently tap with a tack hammer. Studs are an easy way to add a lot of flash to a collar, like spelling out a dog’s name, that’s sturdy enough to last. There are also a variety of leather-stamping tools on the market as well as paints and finishes, so you can stamp shapes or re-create your favorite 70s belt. Leather working can be challenging, but the reward of creating a piece of art that can potentially outlive you or your dog is worth it. Most leather workers are more than happy to share techniques and solutions if you find yourself stuck, so don’t be afraid to call on us! Note: Most leather decorations are calibrated for the thickness of leather, so if you want a vegan option, the best thing to do is start with a pre-made vegan belt that measures at least ¼” thick. Treat it like a strip of leather, as all the tools and instructions stay the same. About the Author: Ana Poe is the owner of Paco Collars, maker of custom handmade leather dog collars. Ana’s been working professionally with dogs since 2001. She has a B.A. in art practice from UC Berkeley and is an all around smart cookie.
Here's a quick video on how we introduce the sit command to new dogs during a heel. Count comes from an amazing bloodline (Homie Blood) but was kept in a backyard most of his life, so he had no idea of the real world and when he was introduced to it he froze. We took a couple weeks to re-imprint and socialize him with the pack now he is in first steps of our training program and has come ALLLLLONG way!..
Like i tell all of my clients there is no bad dogs, there is just bad or miseducated owners. In my pack i have no clean slates or working line bred dogs, we take pound puppies and turn them into full fledged service dogs or in some cases protection dogs. This is where the Primal Canine Philosophy comes in, we re-work the nerves and train these dogs with compassion and communicate with them the way you should.
For more information on Primal Canine or to get a FREE evaluation five us a call at 408.250.0026.
We found this great DIY project on Curbly.com, These type of leashes are great for your everyday dog owner and can be costly if you go and buy name brand. Enjoy,
Colorful rope dog leads have been all the rage in the pet accessories world lately -- and I am obsessed! But, with prices ranging anywhere from $70 to over $150, they're a little outside most people's "dog stuff" budgets. If you'd still like to get your paws on a stylish leash for your pooch (in whatever color your heart desires) without breaking the bank, give this easy DIY rope leash project a whirl!
I am head-over-heels for the rope leash look. As a visual reference, here are a few awesome shops and brands that make them.
Many of these use traditional nautical splicing and whipping techniques, but today we're going to employ a bit of a shortcut! (If you want to learn how to splice rope, there are tons of video tutorials on YouTube, FYI.) So, are you ready to make your own rope dog leash?
Awesome. Pawesome. Here's what you'll need!
- 2 to 2 1/4 yards 3/8" thick cotton rope
- Fabric Dye
- (2) Rope Clamps
- (1) Snap Hook
- Rubber Mallet
- Large Cooking Pot
The rope clamps and snap hook can be found in the rope section of your local hardware store. Finding 100% cotton rope can be a little tricky, though. I ended up finding the braided style at JoAnn's in the trim section. You can order the 3-strand style from Knot & Rope Supply for pretty cheap. (I happened to have some on hand prior to this project.)
1. Determine about how long you want your leash to be (anywhere from 4-6 feet is pretty standard) and cut it accordingly. Be sure to tape or tie off the ends so your rope doesn't unravel.
2. Soak your rope in some warm water. Meanwhile, prepare your dye according to the instructions on the bottle. You won't need very much! A bottle of RIT Liquid Dye will go a long, long way.
3. Now for the fun part! For an ombré/gradient/dip-dyed effect, quickly dip and remove your rope from the dye. Then, re-dip at different heights/levels, until you're happy with the gradation. Want your rope all one color? Submerge the whole rope in the dye, stirring constantly, until the desired color is reached.
Note: I made two versions of this leash using different kinds of rope and found that the 3-strand variety creates a smoother, more subtle ombré effect.
4. Remove your rope and hang it up (outside or in the garage), dark end at the top, to allow the dye to creep down the rope. You can help it along by squeezing the excess dye/water down the length of the rope.
5. Once you're happy with the way the gradient is looking, rinse the rope in cold water until the water runs clear -- or -- use some RIT Dye Fixative before you rinse out the rope if you want to super-seal the color.
6. Allow the rope to dry thoroughly. This may take up to 24 hours.
7. Now that your rope is dry, it's time to attach the clamps and snap hook. Decide which end you want to place the hook. Feed the end of the rope through the ring then fold the rope over, creating a small loop.
8. Place the clamp on a flat surface with the prongs facing up. Lay the base of the rope loop inside the clamp, between the prongs. With a hammer or rubber mallet, hammer all four prongs securely over the rope.
9. On the other end, fold the rope over to create a 6-7" loop (bigger or smaller depending on how big your hands are and what feels comfortable to you). Then, repeat step 8.
Now, after you've attached the rope clamps, you could call it a day -- you have a perfectly functional leash at this point. (Heck, you could skip the dyeing altogether and just attach the clamps and snap hook and -- BAM -- you'd have a leash.) If you really want to take this project into über-stylish territory, though, you'll want to add some finishing touches and cover those ugly clamps up!
There are multiple ways to cover the clamps: you could wrap them in twine/yarn/string/leather cording/etc. etc. I chose to use up some leftover leather (from this project) and create a sleeve with some colorful stitching. If you'd like to do the same, read on!
Materials for Creating a Leather Clamp Cover:
- Craft Knife
- Embroidery Floss
- #18 Darning Needle
- Self-Healing Cutting Mat
1. Cut a strip of leather about 2.25" wide, or wide enough to cover the length of the clamp.
2. From this strip, cut two pieces of leather, both about 2.5" long or long enough to wrap around the clamp.
3. Soak one of the leather pieces in warm water until it becomes soft and malleable. Stretch it out a bit then pat dry.
4. Fold the leather over. Take a hammer and your darning needle and create some small stitch guides/holes anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart. You only need a few light taps from the hammer, don't go crazy.
5. Lay the leather on a flat surface, then position and place the clamp on top. Cut a length of embroidery floss and tie a knot at the end. Anchor the floss to the rope itself by looping and tying the thread a few times.
6. Stitch the two ends of the leather together with a simple whip stitch, pulling tightly. When you reach the end, anchor the floss to the rope as before. Cut the thread.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 for the other clamp. Allow the leather to dry out completely (it'll tighten up around the clamp as it dries) and you're done!
Now for some pretty, pretty pictures!
And, of course, obligatory photos of my dogs:
Happy leash making!
We came across this great post by www.alittlecraftinyourday.com regarding DIY dog beds and had to share it with you. As we all know pet products are a bit pricey (especially quality products) so here at Primal Canine we want to help you save as much as possible, plus a DIY project is always fun. Enjoy, 1. Dog Night Stand
10. Great Dog Bed with Storage Above
Like this post? let us know what you think and comment below!.
Heat can be a tricky thing for dogs, some dogs do just fine in the heat in fact some thrive but on the other side some dogs could suffer extreme health issues when over exposed to heat. Here is a great infographic on your pets and heat. One rule of thumb we tell our clients when it comes to heat is if you don't think a baby would be comfy in that situation then for sure you puppy wont! ..